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"It's a face-to-face world
"This is an era when beauty is justice
No matter how much of these words are ridicule and how much is a complaint, one thing is undeniable-everyone has a love for beauty
The skin is frozen and the face is delicate.
Why does the skin age?
Collagen and hyaluronic acid are quietly lost
The skin is composed of epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous tissue.
Of course, ordinary people's attention to the skin is not a "biological barrier", but whether the complexion is white, the skin is tender or not, and whether there are crow's feet at the corners of the eyes.
Skin aging is usually characterized by three aspects: one is a decrease in elasticity, which is manifested as skin sagging, sagging, and wrinkles; the other is a loss of water, which is dry and rough; the third is a decrease in moisturization, which is manifested as dullness and long spots
Loss of elasticity and water loss, both associated with loss of collagen and hyaluronic acid
Collagen is a structural protein that maintains cells.
"Hyaluronic acid is like the concrete that builds a house
It can be said that both collagen and hyaluronic acid play an irreplaceable role in maintaining the shape, structure and function of the skin
Li Bo said that the skin began to decline at the age of 25
As for the formation of skin pigmentation, it is generally believed that the melasma on the face is actually caused by the accumulation of melanin in the skin
What to eat to supplement what?
No matter how much you don't absorb, it's no use
There is a saying in our country that "what you eat makes up for what you eat", then, can skin aging caused by the loss of collagen and hyaluronic acid be improved by eating collagen and hyaluronic acid?
Li Bo pointed out that the digestion and absorption capacity of collagen itself is very low, that is, the bioavailability is relatively low.
Li Bo's team has proved through animal experiments that oral collagen peptides can indeed significantly inhibit the photoaging and natural aging of the skin, improve the skin's apparent condition and tissue structure, and increase the content of collagen and hyaluronic acid, and there is an obvious dose-effect relationship.
Collagen peptides are complex in structure and can range from simple dipeptides to macromolecular polypeptides.
Oral hyaluronic acid can be absorbed, which is almost a sure-fire conclusion
.
Zhao Lianzhen said that at least 3 studies have been published in international journals, revealing the intestinal absorption efficiency and mechanism of oral hyaluronic acid
.
90% of oral hyaluronic acid is absorbed in the digestive tract.
After being decomposed, about 76.
5% is metabolized by the liver and turned into energy consumption, and 8.
8% is transported to various tissues and organs
.
After eating hyaluronic acid, it is degraded into oligomeric hyaluronic acid with smaller molecular weight by microorganisms in the intestinal tract, which is then absorbed and resynthesized into macromolecular hyaluronic acid under the action of synthase
.
There are also scientific reports on the improvement effect of oral hyaluronic acid on the skin
.
Japan listed hyaluronic acid as an "existing additive" as early as 1996, and it has been used in ordinary food for more than 20 years
.
At the beginning of this year, China approved sodium hyaluronate as a new food raw material and allowed to be added to ordinary food
.
Several articles have been published in Japan, including improving skin moisture, improving radiance, and reducing wrinkles
.
The earliest clinical study of oral hyaluronic acid to improve dry skin was published in 2001.
The subjects consumed 240 mg of sodium hyaluronate every day for 6 weeks, and the skin moisture was significantly improved; In clinical studies, after taking it orally for 6 weeks, the skin moisture improvement of the subjects was also very obvious
.
After 2010, the international clinical research on hyaluronic acid has increased significantly.
In 2012, the United States published a clinical trial of hyaluronic acid, taking 100 mg of hyaluronic acid per day for 12 weeks, and the subjects' facial aging condition improved
.
Now, hyaluronic acid has the fastest growth rate among Japanese oral beauty products
.
Does it really work?
Instrument detection allows "visualization" of beauty efficacy
Oral beauty products are hot now, and there are many people claiming that they have some kind of effect on the skin.
In addition to collagen and hyaluronic acid, there are also grape seed extract, blood orange, bird's nest and so on
.
There have been many disputes and doubts about oral beauty products.
Some experts even think that it is useless to eat them, and it is purely to pay the IQ tax
.
How can we make an objective and fair evaluation of such products? Professor Li Li, Chief Physician of the Department of Dermatology, West China Hospital, Sichuan University, said that changes in skin physiology and biochemistry often give people the most intuitive feeling of whether the skin is in good condition, but it is difficult to accurately judge the degree of skin aging based on subjective feelings alone
.
At present, with the development of sound, light, electricity and other engineering technologies and information science, the instruments and equipment for non-invasive observation of skin structure and function are constantly updated iteratively
.
Testing technologies and methods for skin physiological parameters, skin color, skin aging, etc.
, can non-invasively, in vivo and objectively detect the health and beauty of the skin, and provide technologies and methods for truly evaluating the efficacy of health food and cosmetics on the skin
.
"What we do more is the evaluation of cosmetics," Li Li, who is also the director of the Cosmetics Evaluation Center of West China Hospital of Sichuan University, said, "but the evaluation of cosmetics, skin evaluation, and efficacy evaluation of health food are actually The same reason, the same method can be used
.
”
To evaluate the efficacy of oral beauty products in removing freckles and increasing skin elasticity, instruments with different principles can be used for measurement
.
For example, the non-invasive skin detection instrument based on the principle of spectral absorption can reflect the change of skin color by detecting the content of melanin and hemoglobin in the skin; the skin elasticity tester can test the principle of suction and stretching of the skin.
Test for skin laxity
.
For the evaluation of moisturizing, anti-allergy, and skin barrier repair, it is necessary to measure multiple indicators for comprehensive evaluation
.
"The increase in skin water content is not the increase in the water content of the dermis, but the increase in the water content of the stratum corneum.
At the same time, the barrier function of the skin must be tested
.
" Li Li introduced that if the skin adds a lot of water, it cannot stabilize the water.
Inside the skin, it means that the skin barrier cannot hold water, the water will evaporate, and no matter how much water is added to the surface of the skin, it will be lost
.
With the development of science and technology, some experimental work platforms and instruments can detect many parameters and reflect multiple functions
.
For example, a skin sensitivity test platform can perform simultaneous tests on blood circulation, wrinkles, pigmentation,
etc.
"The efficacy test of the skin is very important.
After the health food is compounded with the raw materials, the physical and chemical reactions between the raw materials, the pH value, the compatibility of the raw materials, etc.
, as well as the chemical safety, physical safety, and biological safety of the raw materials themselves have Changes may occur
.
Therefore, whether it can be absorbed after reaching the human body, and whether it is damaged after passing through the gastrointestinal tract, needs to be tested for evaluation
.
” Li Li revealed: “As the evaluation of cosmetics by the State Food and Drug Administration and the national big data In the laboratory, we are also developing more new methods and new technologies recently for the detection of skin efficacy
.
"
(Gao Jiaodi, Liu Yanfang)
"China Food News" (August 17, 2021 Edition 01)
(Editor in charge: Luo Chen)