Chongqing baby food intangible cultural heritage: boat to the bridge naturally straight

Chongqing Intangible Cultural Heritage - Qiaotou hot pot base making technology

Inheritor, Li Bo, 46 years old, has been in the industry for 30 years

When things are at the worst they will mend

It is generally believed that the hot pot was created by the shipwrights of the Sichuan River in the

The cheapest pig, cattle and sheep offal, with a coarse salt code of one yard, except for a fishy smell; Burn a pot of soup, throw a few pig bones down, add a few dried peppers, and then pick up the water and blanch it in the soup

You can make some sea pepper noodles and pepper noodles as a dipping sauce

Obviously, the hot pot was very clear at the beginning of its birth: if the pot of soup is done well, the water can also be boiled into a dream

This pot of soup is called the hot pot base, referred to as the bottom of the

In 1908, nearly 20 years after the opening of Chongqing, the sails on the south bank of Haitangxi Wharf were covered, and the shipwrights and sailors were scalding the original hot pot every day

At that time, it was not called hot pot, it was called "even pot trouble"

It was so hilarious, but even the pot trouble has not been able to sublimate into a business

So he thought: sea peppers, peppercorns can dispel wind and dehumidification, if a large amount of added to the soup to boil, so that the ingredients are soaked when they are spicy, will it be better?

That's right

Boss Li tried out the recipe, and he was going to sell the upgraded version of the pot along the

Pick a basket at each end of the flat burden, one is a red clay stove holding a foreign iron pot, the pot is simmered with the boiled base, go all the way, incense all the way; The other is loaded with cut beef tripe, beef liver, beef heart, etc.

This guy was unsurprisingly on fire

Tongji Bridge, a single-hole small stone bridge built during the Tongzhi period, has long disappeared from the development and construction of Nanbin Road

During the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, Chongqing's catering industry prospered unprecedentedly

His name is Li Wenjun

Boss Lee's selling point is cheap

Li Wenjun is much smarter
than his father.
He added mash, rock sugar, tempeh and other spices to the bottom of the pot in order to expand the taste connotation and include the sweet and delicate Xiajiang flavor
.
However, the people of Xiajiang are still very afraid of spicy, so Li Wenjun has customized a batch of pots welded with partitions, which can be sour, clear, and spicy, and do not affect
each other.

There is also dipping sauce
.
The dish that just came out of the pot is hot and spicy, and it needs the right medium to cool it down
.
Li Wenjun used sesame oil and egg white to concoct a best hot pot partner
.

One day, a cultural celebrity ate and left a piece of ink treasure:

Man travels on the road, eating at the head of the bridge; The pot of all things swims in the middle, and the fire is red all over the sky
.

If Li Wenjun got the most precious treasure, he quickly changed the "bridgehead and pot trouble" to "bridgehead hot pot"
.
It was like 1938, and restaurants in Chongqing named after "hot pot" were still very rare
.

In 1943, the playwright Yu Ling set up a birthday party at the bridgehead hot pot, and a cattle man jumped out while drinking wine and took advantage of an oil poem:

Begonia bridgehead, open a shop, a square table, dig a hole in the middle, make a stove in the hole, install a pot on the stove, boil soup in the pot, eat chopsticks, or scald meat slices, or hot vegetable leaves, eat a belly, incense you for a lifetime
.

"Zizi" interlocked, rhymed to the end
.
If you read in Sichuanese, you will have more feelings and better appreciate the characteristics and subtleties
of Chongqing hot pot.

This person's name is Guo Moruo, a big V-level existence
at that time.
With one mouth, he sent Li Wenjun's bridgehead hot pot to the climax and peak
of his life.

Around 1957, Qiaotou Hot Pot was merged into the South Bank District Catering Service Company and moved to Shangxin Street to continue its business
.

In the context of state-run enterprises, entrepreneurs and successors are prone to lose the direction of progress, and many small brands and small crafts have disappeared
.
Like a big boat, you can go out to the sea and swim the river, but you may not be able to cross the bridge
.

Li Wenjun was not lost
.
Even if he is no longer a captain, he is willing to pass on his life's craft and experience to his latecomers who
have never known.
This latecomer began to learn art with his master in the fifties and sixties, and he regarded the bridgehead hot pot as his own business, and once he did it, it was half a century
.

His name is Yin Xuechen, the second generation of Qiaotou hot pot
.

Yin Xuechen was about 16 years old
when he took Li Wenjun as his teacher.
In 1989, Lao Yin, who was already a national culinary master and seasoner, also took in an apprentice, and it was a coincidence that the child was also 16 years old
.

There are two things that bear child Li Bo is most interested in, one is eating, the other is cooking
.
No way, Grandpa and Uncle are cooks, even the mother is also an employee of the catering service company, the whole family "eats" for a living, where do you tell him to go?

After graduating from junior high school, Li Bo gave up treatment and ran to a college restaurant where his grandfather and uncle worked to help cook
.
It didn't matter what he did, as long as he smelled the food, he felt comfortable
all around.

Mom conceded defeat
.
Well, since you want to be a cook so much, it will fulfill you
.
Find another master to be your master, satisfied, right?

Satisfied satisfied, quite satisfied
.
Li Bo ran to see the master with joy, but the master only said lightly:

Let's
start with handymen.
Get up at three o'clock tomorrow morning and follow me to Dayanggou
.

Dayanggou, the most famous farmers' market
in the Liberation Monument 30 years ago.
Fresh ingredients from all over the world are brought here for sale
in the middle of the night.
Li Bo's first lesson is to get up early and greed for black to learn to select materials
.

That's what the university asked
.
For example, hairy belly, the most difficult to keep fresh, even if it is newly slaughtered on the same day, it will sell dismally
for a few hours.
So someone uses formalin, you look fresh and strong at first glance, where do you know the dirt
behind it.

Therefore, the selection of hairy belly not only to see the thickness, but also to see the color, often the kind that looks a little miserable, may be fresh and healthy
.
You also have to smell it, and there is no nose that is allergic to potions, and it is easy to be deceived
.

Li Bo likes to do this
.
For a while his tongue was stiff and numb because he had to taste a lot of peppercorns and watercress
every day.
To be a chef, the tongue does not make sacrifices, then how to do
.

One day in 1993, 20-year-old Li Bo finally heard the master say: You go to the bottom material
.

The production of hot pot base is a very complex taste system engineering
.
You have to arrange and combine the different condiments precisely to get the ideal taste
.

For example, garlic and ginger, or chili peppers and peppercorns, the order of the pot must not be wrong, otherwise the taste will be chaotic
.
For example, vegetable oil has a strong flavor and is likely to destroy the entire taste ecology, so it is necessary to use salad oil for initial frying
.

Dozens of kinds of ingredients, Li Bo must keep in mind the characteristics of each one, the order of the pot and the time of frying
.
How hard it is to memorize texts and memorize formulas when you go to school, or this is good, a back will come to strength, the master will be excited when he takes the test, hehe
.

It's time to get started with stir-frying
.
The various colors are arranged in a circle around the pot, including Pixian watercrescent, Yongchuan tempeh, Shizhu red pepper, Guizhou millet spicy, Maowen green peppercorn, local rock sugar and mash, as well as fine butter and salad oil
.

At first, swing in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction so that there is no chaos
.
It doesn't matter when you practice to the master's position, no matter how you swing, you can reach out and scoop a quasi-head without raising your head; Even the eyes can not be opened, and when the time comes, it is natural to know whether to invite the next material to appear
.

It seems that just by looking at the nose, the master can smell where the road is
.

When the ingredients are fried, you have to add soup to
boil.
Be sure to use the best pork beef or chicken meat, and first boil a pot of soup, so that you can put a thick and elegant coat
on the bottom of the pot.

The pot is served on the table, and the diners are hot and the taste will change
.
Why do some hot pots become more and more bitter the more they eat? Because inferior peppercorns are used, the bitter taste of the peppercorns that are blanched to the back will explode
.
Even high-quality peppercorns are just a little more resistant to high temperatures and cannot be avoided
.

So what to do? Add acid, because the acid can neutralize the base, it's as simple as that
.
But it's not so low with vinegar directly
.
A good seasoner will definitely add another ingredient with accurate proportions to boil
according to the principle of mutual survival of ingredients.

Since Li Wenjun, Qiaotou hot pot has always insisted on free seasoning for guests, passed down to Li Bo's generation, which is still the case
.
Li Bo said that this is the essence of an intangible cultural heritage project that should be inherited:

What is tradition? What is morality? It is in every need of the guests that you have enough housekeeping skills
.

When Li Bo was a child, the restaurant moved from Shangxin Street to Nanping Industry and Trade, which just stood on the south bridge of the Yangtze River Bridge on the stone slope, hanging up the signboard, or the "bridgehead hot pot"
.

When Li Bo also became a master, the bridgehead hot pot went through several ups and downs, and then moved to the south bridgehead of the East Shuimen Bridge on Nanbin Road, looking at the Haitang Creek that originated from afar, and finally still guarded the "bridgehead" and did not retreat
.

In recent years, Li Bo has been running day and night to guide people to open shops all over the country, but the bridgehead hot pot has left
again because of the opening of the East Watergate Bridge.
This time I moved to Yubei Huixing, and there was no bridge to rely on
.

This may be another crisis
in the history of the old store for more than a hundred years.
When will I be able to return to Nanbin Road and return to the blessed land where I was born?

Li Bo could only continue to run
.
East to Jinan, west to Yili, north to Hunchun, northwest to Jiayuguan, south to Nanyang Xinma, Qiaotou hot pot has more than 200 franchise stores at home and abroad, each of which he must help
.

He travels at least 160 days
a year.
A store stays for three or four days at most, and then it is necessary to rush to the next one
.
More than 200 stores took turns over and over again, and three or four years passed
.
Then came a new round
.

Run, run, run, 20-year-old boy ran to become a 46-year-old uncle, and he had to continue to run in the
future.
The stories of the ancestors have long been familiar to the chest, so Li Bo believes in a truth:

In the torrent of history, as long as the people on the boat keep running, then when the boat reaches the
bridge, it will naturally be straight.