Anecdotes and anecdotes hidden behind the hot pot (below)

Among many delicacies, hot pot can be described as a peculiar existence

Chinese people love to eat hot pot

Every meal of hot pot can have a story.

Su Dongpo's exiled product "Gu Dong Soup"

In Guangdong area, the locals call Cantonese-style hot pot as "beating edge () stove"

Su Shi lived in Huizhou, Lingnan for two years and seven months, and left behind a lot of good food quotes and food stories

Su Dongpo brewed his own Luofu Spring Drink in Huizhou, eating bayberry, lychee, roasted lamb spine, taro, and even his friends cooked "Gu Dong soup" to entertain

Su Dongpo said in the "Book of Taoist Poems": "People from the south of the Yangtze River like to cook rice on a plate, and they are all buried in the rice

The Rabbit Hot Pot that Lin Hong misses

Speaking of gourmets in the Song Dynasty, in addition to Su Dongpo, there was also a Lin Hong in the Southern Song Dynasty, who was also an out-and-out gluttonous eater, and Lin Hong learned to eat food.

"Mountain Family Clearance" is divided into two volumes, the first and the second volume, and a total of 104 dishes are written.

It is worth mentioning that the book records the hot pot in the Southern Song Dynasty, and describes in detail the story of Lin Hongxuetian eating rabbit meat pot

Lin Hong wrote in the book that one day when he went to Wuyi Mountain to visit a hermit, there was a sudden heavy snowfall, and Lin Hong happened to catch a hare that rolled down the mountain, so he wanted to bake it

As a result, Lin Hong stopped eating and praised the taste of this dish

Five or six years later, Lin Hong went to dinner at his friend Yang Yongzhai's house in Lin'an, and accidentally saw this way of eating again, which made him very excited

　　The practice of this dish has been handed down to the present.

　　Some people think that the famous Fujian traditional dish "Basheng Hot Pot" originated from this "Paling Xia Offering"

Hu Shi treats guests with "one quality pot"

　　Some modern celebrities are also particularly obsessed with hot pot.

　　Hu Shi is a native of Jixi, Anhui Province.
The custom of this place is that when entertaining guests, the most important thing is not to use a big plate and a large bowl, but only a large iron pot.
In the pot, put all the dishes for the guests, and eat them while cooking.
A pot"
.
When Hu Shi was the president of Peking University, he often entertained guests with this kind of "hot pot" at home
.

　　According to legend, "Yipin Guo" was created by Mrs.
Yu, the first-ranked wife of Bi Qiang, the "Four Books" of Shitai County in the Ming Dynasty.
Vegetables such as radishes and winter melons; the upper layer is half-fat and half-thin pork cut into long strips; the next layer is stuffed with oily tofu; the fourth layer is egg dumplings; the fifth layer is braised chicken and duck; The sixth layer is fried tofu; the seventh layer is green spinach or other vegetables
.
When eating, add seasonings and an appropriate amount of water, first boil the soup with a strong fire, then slowly cook it for three or four hours, and then eat it while burning, eating layer by layer, which is very interesting
.

　　The famous writer Liang Shiqiu ate "Yipin Pot" at Hu Shi's house, and Mrs.
Hu Shi personally cooked the dishes
.
He wrote in the article "Mr.
Hu Shi's Two or Three Things": "A large iron pot, about a foot in diameter, was served hot, and it was still boiling, with a layer of chicken, a layer of duck, and a layer of meat.
, decorated with some egg skin dumplings, and radish and cabbage at the bottom
.
Mr.
Hu introduced this pot in detail, telling us that this is the top grade of Huizhou people's hospitality, and wine, food, and soup are all among them
.
" For this dish, Liang Shiqiu is full of praise
.

　　The beauty of this dish is that there are layers of meat, such as chicken, duck, and meat, but when you taste it, you will never feel greasy, because after the vegetarian dishes are saturated with oil layer by layer, the meat side dishes often taste better than meat.
Better taste
.
Just like Hu Shi's knowledge, it is complex, rich and profound, and it is delicious to eat
.

　　Hu Shi's Yipin Pot has since become famous everywhere.
Originally, this dish was called Jixi Yipin Pot, but it was later renamed "Hu Shi Yipin Pot", just because Hu Shi was so famous
.
It is said that Hu Shi often entertained guests with this dish not only in Beijing, but also when he lived in the United States, and the guests praised it after eating
.

Li Jieren's research on Sichuan-style hot pot

　　Li Jieren, who was born in Chengdu, Sichuan, is a famous writer in the history of modern Chinese literature, and he is also a rare food culture expert, especially for the deep research on Sichuan-style hot pot
.
He said: "The beauty of hot pot is not only spicy, but also has the word 'hot'.
The advantage of hot pot is to increase appetite
.
It's strange to say that after taking one bite and then the second one, it won't feel so hot.

.
And this kind of hot will make people sweat on the head, and the whole body is very comfortable
.
" He also verified that the Maodu hot pot was produced in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China
.
In "On Chinese People's Clothes, Food, Housing and Transportation, Food and Drink", Li Jieren talked in detail: "Maodu hot pot originated in the north of the Yangtze River on the other side of Chongqing
.
At first, general retail traders bought the offal of buffalo, washed and boiled them, and then Cut the liver, stomach, etc.
into small pieces, put a mud stove on Yu Dantou, and a large ocean iron basin with compartments on the stove.
In the basin, fry and boil a spicy, numb and salty marinade.

So the bridgeheads by the river, friends who generally sell labor, and beggars who want to eat meat after getting a few pennies, will gather around their burdens and use them
.
Each of them decides that there is a square of marinade, and it is hot and eaten, and eat a few pieces.
, calculate some money, not only economical, but also can increase the heat
.
It has been unknown for many years.
.
.
Until the 21st or 2nd year of the Republic of China, there was only a small restaurant in Chongqing Commercial Street that made it noble, and moved it from the head.
On the table
.
The tandoor is still the same, only the divided iron pot is replaced by a small copper pot, and the dipping sauce is also changed to be matched by the diners themselves, so as to be clean and suitable for everyone's taste.
.
.
Chengdu (in the 35th year of the Republic of China) has gradually developed extremely refined, and gradually increased its prosperity.
.
.
In addition to the main buffalo hair belly slices, there are sashimi slices, eel slices with blood, and raw beef brain marrow.
, there is raw beef spinal cord, raw beef liver slices, raw beef loin slices, raw beef loin ribs lightly mixed with soybean flour, tender mutton.
.
.
"

　　As for Li Jieren's food anecdotes, the most talked about is the story of his resignation to open a restaurant
.

　　In 1930, Li Jieren resigned as a university professor and opened a restaurant "Xiaoya" in Chengdu Command Street
.
In addition to the well-prepared Sichuan and Western dishes, the restaurant also has tripe hot pot
.
Li Jieren once wrote: "Eating tripe hot pot requires great courage.
After eating, the whole body sweats profusely and the tongue goes through the wood.
This is the embarrassment, but also the better
.
People who are elegant and hygienic disdain to eat; People who are intolerant of dry dramas are inconvenient to eat; high-level Chinese who have neurasthenia and faint when they are stimulated, should not eat it; and friends from other provinces who are used to eating light sweets and sweat and frown at the sight of chili, naturally should not eat it.
Eat, lest you be sinned
.
" This is a wonderful essay that speaks the truth
.
Most of the people who come to his restaurant are teachers, gentlemen and celebrities.
Most of these people have a rebellious mentality - if you say "don't eat", I will eat it
.
So, as soon as the diners sat down, they said, "Come on a pot of 'uneatable' tripe hotpot, you are so fierce!" Feared like a tiger, and later ate more, not only was not afraid, but became a theoretician of Sichuan cuisine
.
"Xiaoya's dishes are well-prepared, tempting and delicious
.
There are no vulgar customers on the table, and you are slightly drunk
.
" For a time, Xiaoya's restaurant became famous, and the number of diners was like a cloud
.

　　(Comprehensive arrangement by Wang Ning)

　　"China Food News" (May 13, 2022 06 edition)

　　(Editor in charge: Wang Ning)